
This past weekend,
Jay Rayner of the Guardian took Alain Ducasse's new restaurant,
Ducasse at the Dorchester, out for a serious beating. I love a great negative restaurant review - must be something to do with the inexhaustible appeal of schadenfreude. But, come on, how can you not savor a review that contains the following quote?
"I genuinely don't have a problem with restaurants charging £75 for three courses. I just demand that it be memorable, in a losing-your-virginity way. Not memorable in an accident-with a threshing-machine way."