Monday, January 17, 2011
Meatless Week: Assorted goodness.
In any case, I stuck to it, and I'm proud of that, at least. After all, what's a challenge if it doesn't, in the end, challenge us?
One of the things I did to get me through the sushi-free days and hamburger-free nights was to make a couple of root vegetable salads. I ate these together and apart, but I think they make the prettiest picture paired up, in a take on the crudités plates so popular in French bistros.
These two salads - beets with walnut-garlic dressing and celeriac rémoulade - are two of my all-time favorites, mostly because they're full of flavor and don't feel at all like any kind of deprivation. The beet salad comes straight from Mark Bittman, who based his ultra-simple recipe on a technique taught to him by the inimitable Alsatian, Jean-Georges Vongerichten. (If there's anyone who knows how to make winter produce appetizing, it's an Alsatian.)
The remoulade is based on Ina Garten's super-easy take, with a bit of parsley thrown in for freshness and color and a touch of honey added for depth. I also say pooh to her suggestion of a mandoline or food processor for making the rémoulade; if you are serving a huge crowd, fine. But for a few servings, a sharp knife will surely suffice.
So go forth and make these delicious meatless creations - I certainly will, though the next time they appear chez Queenie, they'll likely be paired with glorious, wonderful meat.
Celeriac Rémoulade
Adapted from Barefoot in Paris by Ina Garten
1 pound celeriac (also known as celery root)
3 tbs. lemon juice, divided
Kosher salt
1/2 cup mayonnaise (either homemade or Hellmann's)
1 tsp. Champagne or white wine vinegar
1 tbs. Dijon mustard
1 tbs. whole grain mustard
1/2 tsp. honey
1/4 cup flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
Freshly ground black pepper
Cut the knobby end off of the celeriac to create a stable way to brace it. Peel the celeriac by slicing down the sides with a serrated knife, removing the rough, brown peel. Discard the peel and cut the celeriac first into 1/4 slices, then into matchsticks about two inches long.
Place the sliced celeriac into a large bowl. Sprinkle with one tablespoon of the lemon juice and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt. Set aside for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the dressing. Combine the mayonnaise, vinegar, mustards, remaining lemon juice, honey, another 1/4 teaspoon salt and several grinds of pepper in a small bowl. Whisk together and set aside.
Once the celeriac has spent 30 minutes softening in the lemon juice, add the sauce to it a bit at a time. You want the vegetables to be lightly dressed, and will likely have a healthy amount of sauce leftover. (It's great on meats and sandwiches of all kinds.) Once you've dressed the salad to your liking, add the parsley and stir to combine evenly.
The rémoulade be made up to 24 hours ahead and stored, tightly covered, in the fridge. Bring to room temperature and adjust seasonings before serving.
Serves four as a side.
Beets with Garlic-Walnut Sauce
Adapted from Mark Bittman
2 pounds red beets, trimmed of their greens if need be
1/4 cup olive oil
6 cloves garlic, peeled and whole
1/2 cup walnut halves
1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup parsley, finely chopped
Pre-heat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Wash the beets well, and let them remain a bit wet. Wrap each beet individually in aluminum foil and place them on a cookie sheet. Roast them in the oven, undisturbed, for 60 to 90 minutes, until a knife pierces them with little resistance. Smaller beets will take less time, and some mondo beets will take more. Check every 15 minutes or so and remove them from the oven one by one as they finish.
Allow the beets to cool to the point where you can handle them, then peel them and cut into 1-inch cubes. Place in a large bowl and set aside.
While the beets roast, make the garlic-walnut sauce. In a small skillet set over moderately low heat, warm the olive oil. Add the garlic and toast until it softens and turns somewhat golden. Add the walnuts and cook for a few minutes more, just until they begin to color. Remove the skillet from the heat and set aside to cool.
Transfer the walnuts, garlic and olive oil to a blender, or to a tall, narrow container. Blend in the blender or with an immersion blender until the mixture is smooth and the texture is even. Mix in the orange juice. The sauce should look a bit silky and will be light brown in color.
Once the beets are cut into pieces, add the walnut sauce and stir with a spatula to ensure the beets are evenly coated. Season with salt and pepper to taste (I think it needs a healthy amount of pepper) and serve at room temperature. Garnish with the parsley just before serving.
The salad is great the day it's made, but even better the next day. It will keep, tightly covered in the fridge, for up to four days.
Serves six as a side.
Wednesday, January 12, 2011
Meatless Week: Going gratin.
Anyone who thinks potato gratin is a lot of work is sorely mistaken, and likely missing out on one of life's great simple pleasures. Yes, there's some peeling and slicing involved, but that's not so bad when you consider the immeasurable return: creamy, stinky-with-cheese potatoes. Very little is more satisfying, in my opinion.
Over the weekend, I decided I'd make a little gratin with some gorgeous gold and purple potatoes I picked up at the Greenmarket. I grabbed a bottle of Ronnybrook's Creamline milk and thought I'd just go ahead and use some of the Pecorino left over from my escarole and walnut salad to finish things off.
I typically work off of The Gourmet Cookbook's Gratin Dauphinois recipe, improvising here and there when need be. This version turned out to be wonderfully smelly, with the garlic, Pecorino and touch of Parmesan combining to make a terribly fragrant dish. All in all, I judged it to be a success, and a perfect warm counterpart to that salad.
Potato Gratin with Pecorino and Garlic
Adapted from The Gourmet Cookbook
1 lb. Yukon Gold (or similarly waxy) potatoes, peeled.
1 cup whole milk
1 large garlic clove, minced
1/2 tsp. Kosher salt
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/8 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
1/2 cup Pecorino Romano, coarsely grated
1 tbs. Parmesan, coarsely grated
Place the oven rack in the middle of the oven and pre-heat to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Slice the potatoes as thin as you possibly can and place them in a medium saucepan. Add the milk, garlic, salt and pepper. Bring the mixture to the boil, then remove from heat.
Meanwhile, generously butter a small gratin dish. Once the potato mixture has boiled, pour it into the prepared gratin dish. As soon as the oven is fully heated, sprinkle the cheese and nutmeg over the top of the potato mixture. Place the gratin dish in the oven.
Bake the gratin for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the top is brown and bubbly. Remove from the oven and let sit for at least 15 minutes before serving.
Serves three as a side dish.
Sunday, January 9, 2011
Meatless Week: Altering when alteration finds.
Now, nothing's as good as local corn bought in season, but frozen corn is a pretty close second. It easily kicks the ass of out-of-season corn, no matter how local or organic, that's for sure. And it offers the addict an easy way to get a fix, even in the depths of winter.
Yesterday afternoon, for my first Meatless Week lunch, I decided to tweak a recipe from my summertime meat-free adventure that seemed to go over pretty well with all of you: orecchiette with corn and basil. I substituted tarragon in for the basil (since I had it in the house for some green goddess dip, and since it seems somehow more wintry to me), left out the red pepper, and used some Ronnybrook Creamline milk instead of half and half.
Orecchiette with Corn and Tarragon
1 tsp. olive oil
1 small shallot, minced
1/2 cup frozen corn, thawed in lukewarm water and drained
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 tbs. tarragon, finely chopped, divided
1/4 lb. orecchiette, cooked to al dente and drained
1/4 cup whole milk
In an 8-inch skillet set over moderate heat, warm the olive oil. Add the shallot and cook for a minute or two, until the shallot has turned translucent and is just beginning to color.
Add the corn and some salt to taste. Saute the corn in the oil and shallots for several minutes, until it is hot and starting to soften just a bit. Season with pepper to taste, then add one tablespoon of the tarragon and cook for a minute or two more.
Add the pasta to the pan and mix well with the corn. Add the milk and continue to cook until the mixture has thickened a bit. Transfer to a shallow bowl and sprinkle with the remaining tarragon. Adjust seasonings to taste and eat!
Serves one.
Saturday, January 8, 2011
A wee experiment.
My meatless week kicks off today. I laid in a huge supply of winter greens (mainly escarole) and root vegetables (celeriac, potatoes, beets, carrots), and plan to feast on them all week long. Beets will make several appearances, as will some out-of-season delights from the depth of my freezer, including corn and sweet peas. (The latter are pretty much always better frozen, and the former are a decent substitute for the in-season delights of Jersey corn.)
To get you started, here are a few of things I plan to try this week...I'd love it if you played along!
- Beets With Garlic-Walnut Sauce
- Gratin Dauphinois
- Escarole with Red Onion, Pecorino and Walnuts
- Orecchiette with Corn and
- Celeriac Remoulade
- Orange-Honey Glazed Carrots
- Peas with Ramp Compound Butter
- Butternut Squash Galette
Also, I'd love to hear if you have any suggestions for me! I'm dying for recommendations...
Thursday, September 2, 2010
Meatless Week: A worthy substitute.
5 Napkin goes for a meat-like veggie burger; the red color, I'm guessing, comes from beets, and the thing is huge, and chock-full of lentils, beans, and probably lots of other good sources of vegetable protein. And it's very, very tasty.
Vegetarians and omnivore-veggie-burger-lovers alike, get thee to 5 Napkin. Good beer list, too.
5 Napkin Burger
2315 Broadway
Between 84th and 83rd Streets
212.333.4488
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Meatless Week: An update on that eggplant.
I gently sauteed some white onion and a healthy amount of garlic, until the onion was translucent and the garlic golden. Then I added the diced eggplant (about 3/4 inch dice, peels and seeds included) and a touch of tomato paste. Once that had a chance to work, in went some halved cherry tomatoes, a bit of basil and a little sherry vinegar to deglaze the pan. Last, but certainly not least, I added a smattering of capers, which gave the finished dish a wonderful salty nuttiness.
No recipe here; I didn't really track ingredient proportions or timing, but I can tell you this: eggplant is a lot tastier and easier than I remembered. It will definitely be on my shopping list this weekend.
Monday, August 30, 2010
Meatless Week: Making peace with zucchini.
As an adult, though, I've come around to zucchini and its summer squash compatriots. Its lack of assertive flavor - the very thing that put me off of it so many years ago - makes it the perfect canvas for a myriad of seasonings and preparations. I particularly enjoy it roasted. In a hot oven, zucchini turns sweet just slightly meaty in texture - a great foil for a light vinaigrette and some lightly stinky mascarpone.
The inspiration for these toasts comes from the fabulous whole foods blog Sprouted Kitchen. Sara flavors her zucchini with parsley and mint, and spreads the toast with ricotta - but since I have basil and thyme on hand, along with half a tub of mascarpone, I went in a slightly different direction. I also thought it would be good to dress the warm zucchini in a little lemon juice, the better to get the flavor deep into the fruit. I think it works. How about you?
Roasted Zucchini Toasts
Adapted from Sprouted Kitchen
1 lb. zucchini or summer squash, cut into 1/2 inch dice
Olive oil
2 tbs. finely chopped fresh herbs (I used a mix of thyme and basil)
2 tbs. finely chopped red onion
2 tsp. lemon juice
1/2 tsp. Dijon mustard
2 slices bread
1/4 cup mascarpone cheese
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place a rack in the upper third of your oven and preheat it to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.
In a large bowl, toss the zucchini with just enough olive oil to coat it (a teaspoon or so should do it), along with a pinch each of salt and pepper. (Save the bowl; you'll use it again.) Spread the zucchini evenly onto a cookie sheet. Place in the preheated oven and roast for 20-25 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes or so, until the zucchini is well-browned and roasted through.
Place the zucchini back in the large bowl. Using a fork, stir the lemon juice and mustard together in a small bowl, then add to the zucchini. Add 2/3 of the herbs and 2/3 of the onion, along with a bit more salt and pepper. Toss everything to combine evenly. Allow this mixture to sit while you toast your bread.
Toast the bread to your desired doneness. Spread each piece of toast with half of the mascarpone cheese, then top with half the zucchini mixture. Sprinkle with the remaining herbs and onions. Serve immediately.
Makes two pieces of toast.
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Meatless Week: Tomatoes galore.
I exercised one such opportunity yesterday afternoon, using a prodigious number of said tomatoes, along with a bit of garlic, a fistful of basil and some fresh fettuccine. It's one of my most basic standbys, but it's also one of the tastiest. A raw tomato sauce is kind to in-season vegetables - it doesn't cook away their sweetness or mask their acidity; instead, it lets every flavor in each tomato sing its own little ditty.
Summer Tomato Pasta
1 lb. fresh pasta, such as fettuccine, or 1/2 lb. dry pasta, such as spaghetti
3 cups cherry or grape tomatoes, halved lengthwise
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/4 cup basil leaves, finely sliced into a chiffonade
1/4 cup olive oil
Scant teaspoon sherry vinegar
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbs. mascarpone cheese (optional)
Cook the pasta according to the package directions. In the meantime, combine the tomatoes, garlic, basil, olive oil and sherry vinegar in a large bowl. Add a generous pinch of salt and some black pepper, and toss the whole lot together. Let it hang out while the pasta finishes.
Add the hot pasta to the bowl, and toss to distribute the tomatoes evenly throughout the pasta. Taste and adjust seasonings (you will probably want more salt and pepper). Divide between two bowls or plates, and top each with a tablespoon of the mascarpone. Serve immediately.
Serves two.
Saturday, August 28, 2010
Meatless Week: Giving in.
After four days of cooking and eating meticulously sourced, impeccably fresh vegetable-based meals, I couldn't take it any more. I needed relief from the virtue and toil of Meatless Week. And so, when I was walking past Shake Shack and saw that there was a lull (for once, the line was not out the door), I pounced.
Friday, August 27, 2010
Meatless Week: Going green. And pink.
One of the dirty dish culprits was yesterday's lunch. Alongside the leftover corn chowder from Wednesday night's superlative dinner, I enjoyed one of my more favorite summer salads: roasted beets with green beans, red onion and dill. It is so. Freaking. Good. There's something about the combination of the snappy beans and rich beets - enhanced by a little bit of dill and lemon juice - that just makes me happy.
This isn't a new recipe; it's basically this pasta without the pasta or the yogurt, and with lemon juice instead of vinegar. I think you should try it.
(And, yes, those really are beets in that photo. They're light pink, though, so they look kinda potato-y. But they're not, I promise.)
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Meatless Week: An oldie and a goodie.
Hello, gentle readers! It's day three of Meatless Week, and so far, I'm doing just fine. No major bacon or beef cravings - though tomorrow, which is sushi day at my office, will be a true test of willpower. I've managed to keep myself satisfied by eating vegetarian dishes with lots of flavor and a bunch of different textures. For lunch today, that meant poaching some garlic in olive oil and adding some hot pepper. I tossed half with some blanched broccoli and soy sauce (à la Ina), and the other half with orecchiette, halved cherry tomatoes and some fresh basil leaves.
Tonight for dinner, I decided to pair hot with cold. I had two ears of corn and a couple of Yukon golds left in the fridge, and decided that corn chowder would be just the thing for those and for the glug or two of cream left from last week's dinner party shenanigans.
I browsed Epicurious and found what I was looking for: a simple, fast corn chowder recipe from a summer 2008 issue of Gourmet. I played with it a bit - my version is less creamy, a bit saltier, and has black pepper rather than white - but kept the primary, golden notion: making a quick corn stock with the cobs. Genius!
I'm a bit worried about my lack of protein consumption, but am hoping to remedy that tomorrow with an eggy breakfast and some of the same - or possibly beans - at dinner. I think that should do the trick. Clearly, were I planning to become a real-life vegetarian, I'd have to get better at the whole alternative protein sources thing. In the meantime, though...corn chowder!
Summer Corn Chowder
Adapted from Gourmet
2 ears corn, shucked
1 quart cold water
1/2 lb. Yukon gold potatoes, cut into 1/2 inch chunks
1/2 medium onion, chopped
1/2 large carrot, halved lengthwise, then sliced 1/4 inch thick
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 red bell pepper, chopped
2 thyme sprigs
1 bay leaf
1/4 cup heavy cream
2 scallions, finely chopped
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Cut corn kernels from each cob, then hold cob upright in a bowl and scrape with the back of a butter knife to extract the "milk."
Bring cobs, water, potatoes, and 1/2 teaspoon salt to a boil in a large pot, covered, then boil, covered, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. (Break the cobs in half to fit into the pot, if need be.) Discard cobs.
Meanwhile, cook onion, carrot, garlic and 1/2 teaspoon salt in oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until onion is pale golden, about 10 minutes.
Add bell pepper, corn and its "milk," thyme, and bay leaves to the onion and carrot mixture. Reduce heat to low and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, 15 minutes. (If there's not enough "milk" to make this sufficiently wet, add a bit of the potato cooking water.)
Stir potatoes with water and cream into the corn mixture and gently boil, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until reduced to about 7 cups, about 30 minutes. Stir in black pepper and salt to taste. Discard bay leaves and thyme sprigs. If serving immediately, add the scallions. If not, wait until you do.
Serves two, generously, or three as an appetizer.
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Meatless Week: Obsession sets in.
Frankies Spuntino's Avocado and Tomato Salad
Adapted from The Frankies Spuntino Kitchen Companion and Cooking Manual
1/2 lb. ripe tomatoes
1/4 small red onion, sliced as thinly as possible
1/4 cup olive oil, plus additional for drizzling
1 tbs. sherry vinegar
Fine sea salt
1 ripe Hass avocado
Freshly ground black pepper
Slice the tomatoes into wedges and place - gently - in a large bowl. Add the onion, 1/4 cup of the olive oil, vinegar and a large pinch of salt. Gently toss the salad with your hands, then set aside while you prep the avocado.
Pit and peel the avocado, and slice the flesh into large chunks or wedges.
Place the tomatoes and onions onto a plate and drizzle with about half the vinaigrette from the bowl. Arrange the avocado on top of the tomatoes and drizzle them with a bit more olive oil. Salt the avocado generously, and top with a few grinds of black pepper. Serve immediately.
Serves one, generously. (Frankies claims this version serves two, but I beg to differ.)
Meatless Week: Desperately seeking eggplant inspiration.
Which brings me to the question: I was seduced by the cuteness of these little fairy tale eggplants at the market on Saturday, and would love to hear what you think I should do with them. I bought about a pound and a half, I think, based on my memory that eggplant cooks down quite a bit.
Thoughts?
Monday, August 23, 2010
Meatless Week: Monday blues.
For lunch, I made Frankie's Spuntino's tomato and avocado salad. (As opposed to their beet and avocado salad, which I've swooned over previously.) I practically licked the plate when I ordered this at the restaurant a few weeks back, and so I was very, very excited to be reminded of it in an NPR podcast over the weekend. I promptly added avocados to my FreshDirect order (Did I mention that I am in love with my iPhone?) and got ready for the excitement.
Now, I was bleary and sleepy when I ate, so I don't have a photo to accompany my accolades, but you know what I do have? A second avocado. So I think I can promise you that this salad will be making a second appearance later this week. In the meantime, avail yourselves of the recipe. You won't be sorry.
Dinner, coming after a further three hours of napping, was a less sleepy effort. I didn't want to do anything too crazy, but I was pretty hungry. The result? A tomato and cucumber salad, alongside a dish of orecchiette with corn. Pasta with corn always strikes me as slightly over-indulgent (carbs upon carbs), which is one of the reasons I love it oh-so-much.
Orecchiette with Corn and Basil
2 ears corn, shucked
1 tbs. olive oil
1 red pepper, diced
4 scallions, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic (one if the cloves are large), thinly sliced
1/8 cup basil leaves, thinly sliced
1/3 lb. orecchiette pasta, cooked to al dente and drained (reserve 1/4 cup of the cooking water)
1 tbs. heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
If there is any bit of the stalk left on the corn, slice it off to create a flat surface. Stand the ear of corn on its flat end and slice down the side, cutting away the kernels. Repeat on all sides of the ear until the cob is stripped of its kernels. Set aside the corn and discard the cobs.
Warm the olive oil in a medium skillet set over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot (slightly shimmering, but not smoking), add the red pepper, scallions and garlic to the pan. Cook for a few minutes, until the scallions are very soft and the garlic lightly golden.
Add the corn kernels to the pan and mix with the aromatics. Salt and pepper this mixture fairly generously, and saute for two or three minutes, until the corn is just softening. Add about half the basil and half the reserved cooking water to the pan and continue to cook until the liquid in the pan is reduced to a syrupy coating.
Add the cooked pasta to the pan, along with a tad more of the cooking water, and cook the pasta and sauce together for a minute or two. Turn off the heat and add the remaining basil and the cream to the pan. Stir to combine. Taste, adjust seasonings (I find that adding the cream means adding a bit more salt and pepper), and serve immediately.
Serves two.

